Wholesale Transmission Parts

A full line of all parts and supplies for automatic transmission rebuilding. We also carry performance, racing, and heavy duty upgrade transmission parts.
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COMPLETE & REBUILT SATURN VALVE BODY WITH ALL 5 SOLENOIDS AND NEW GASKET. 1 year guarantee! SATURN REBUILT VALVE BODY FITS ALL 1.9 LITER MOTOR SIZES Item Description SATURN VALVE BODY (TAAT) 1992-2002 2 YEAR WARRANTY ON SONNAX STYLE I HAVE INCLUDED INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR OUR VALUED CUSTOMERS TO GIVE YOU HELP IF YOU NEED IT. BUY WITH CONFIDENCE FITS MODELS SL, SC AND SW WITH THE 1.9 LITER MOTORS COMES WITH ALL PRESSURE&DIGITALLY TESTED SOLENOIDS HEAVY DUTY SPRINGS FOR HIGHER VALVE TOLERATION AVAILABLE *****CAUSE***** ESTIMATED 75% OF SATURN TRANSMISSION FAILURE CAN BE DIRECTLY ATTRIBUTED TO EXCESSIVE VALVE WARE IN THE PRESURE REGULATOR BORE, CAUSING REDUCED LINE PRESSURE IN THE TRANSAXLE. *****EFFECT**** NO REVERSE, SLOW REVERSE ENGAGEMENT OR 2ND GEAR SLAM 3RD GEAR SLIPPAGE ****ANSWER***** QUALITY RE-MANUFACTURED&UP-GRADED SATURN VAlVE BODY ******Accept Credit Cards****** PHONE 813 -333-3823 TO PLACE ORDERS OR ORDER ON OUR WEBSITE WITH ANY MAJOR CREDIT CARD, 24/7 SATURN VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT STEPS BY QUALITY TRANSMISSION PARTS!!!!! (It is not necessary to drain the trans axle before replacing the Valve Body.) 1. Place Control Lever to "Park" and leave the car overnight so the fluid can cool and drain from the Valve Body to the bottom part of the transaxle. 2. Disconnect Negative then Positive Battery terminals (8mm socket) 3. Remove the Battery strap 2 bolts and 1 nut (10mm socket) 4. Remove the air filter and air duct. 5. Remove air filter housing - 3 bolts (10mm socket) 6. Remove 2 bolts holding the Control Module to battery tray (10mm socket). Move the module out of the way without disconnecting the cable. 7. Remove the battery tray 2 bolts from the top, one from wheel well (13mm socket) 8. If your car has ABS brake system you also need to disconnect Master Cylinder to gain access to Valve Body Cover. 9. Move any cables/hoses away from the top of Valve Body Cover, secure those with cable tie if necessary. 10. Wipe off any dust before further disassembly. Use some Brake Cleaner. 11. Loosen the bolt securing electrical connector on the top of Valve Body cover (7mm socket). Then carefully unplug the connector. Move it aside. 12. Remove 8 bolts that hold Valve Body Cover (8mm socket). Carefully slide the cover towards the front of the car and out. Be careful not to bend the cover. 13. Remove 11 bolts holding the valve body (8mm socket). The bolts are all different length so make note of their positions. I used the egg tray with numbers 1- to-11 14. Carefully slide the Valve Body assembly toward the front of the car and up. At this moment the Manual Valve Link will slide out of the hole in Manual Valve. Be careful not to drop the Manual Valve. Note that the plastic clip is facing toward the front of the car. 15. Place the Valve Body assembly on the bench. Carefully slide the Manual Valve out. Also remove the bolt holding Spring Lever (8mm socket). You have to reuse the Spring Lever and the Manual Valve. 16. At this point it is a good idea to inspect the condition of each gear and clutch pack for wear. You can rotate Input Shaft by hand and visually inspect everything. 17. Install the Spring Lever onto new Valve Body. Tighten the bolt. 18. Lubricate with ATF then carefully slide the Manual Valve into new Valve Body. 19. Using extra care not to damage the bottom gasket move the new Valve Body into place. At the same time lift the Manual Valve Link slightly so it is inline with the corresponding hole in Manual Valve. The plastic clip must face toward the front of the car. Now carefully place the Valve body in position. 20. Install 11 bolts starting with two dowel bolts #8 and #9 to get proper alignment. 21. Finger tight all 11 bolts. 22. Using inch-pounds torque wrench (I loaned one from local auto parts store) tighten the bolts in a recommended sequence to 97 inch-pounds. 23. It is a good idea to have somebody move the Control Lever trough all positions so you can watch the Manual Valve movement. 24. Install the Valve Body Cover and Gasket (I was able to reuse the old one), finger tight the 8 Cover bolts then tighten those in a recommended pattern to 97 -inch-pounds. 25. Plug the connector, install everything is reverse of removal. 26. Start the car, let it run for a few minutes then place it into Reverse then into Drive . 27. Check for leaks ADAPTIVE SHIFT RELEARN PROCEDURE AFTER INSTALL AND DRIVING TEST , THE FOLLOWING ARE PRESENT, PROCEED WITH ASR PROCEDURE. Harsh shifts, Soft shifts, Flare shifts or spin up shifts, may occur until a relearn procedure is performed (please follow the steps below). Info: An "adaptive shift relearn procedure" allows the computer to adjust line pressure (using the EPC) to achieve the appropriate shift feel&timing. Input & output speed sensors are the computers inputs or "ears & eyes" for this procedure. Removing a worn valve body, and replacing it with a remanufactured valve body, will often cause drivability complaints such as the ones listed above. This occurs because the computer has in memory the "shift adapts" from the worn valve body that was removed. The computer increases line pressure to compensate for this wear, hence, relearning the computer is a must after a valve body replacement. 1. On all models, start engine and warm engine to normal operating temperature (above 45C or 113F) 2. Perform 10 sets of upshifts (1-2, 2-3 and 3-4) at about 30 percent throttle. 3. On a DOHC engine, while coasting at 35 MPH, slowly accelerate to throttle to achieve a 4-3 downshift. Place gearshift in "D3" while coasting at 20 MPH, slowly accelerate to throttle to achieve a 3-2 downshift. 4. Repeat step 3) 5 times. Vehicle relearn adaptive shift procedure is now complete. 5. On a SOHC engine, while coasting at 40 MPH, slowly accelerate to throttle to achieve a 4-3 downshift. Place gearshift in "D3" while coasting at 30 MPH, slowly accelerate to throttle to achieve a 3-2 downshift. 6. Repeat step 5) 5 times. Vehicle relearn adaptive shift procedure is now complete. HELPFULL TOPICS NO REVERSE & HARD SHIFT " My Saturn has a hard time or won't go into reverse. 2nd Gear slams hard or over revs before engaging etc." Everywhere you read the problem is the TAAT valve Body. There are a few other causes for this often over looked by most shops and laymen. Most likely the TAAT is the answer. Granted if the Saturn 92 and up has an odometer with 60,000 miles or more on it, the odds are very good that the pressure regulator valve and bore are worn significantly. A repair or replacement valve body is no doubt in order. But after the repair or replacement, you still have an issue. It must be a flaw with the repair, or a defective re-manufactured valve body, right? Not necessarily. Lets explore a few other things that could possibly cause a reverse issue. The most common cause of delay or no reverse, other than the valve body, is a loose main-shaft nut. The symptoms will most likely occur when the vehicle is hot, and may also exhibit a soft or flared 2nd gear up-shift. A loose main-shaft nut can cause a Leak in the 2nd clutch circuit. When the nut is loose, the main-shaft walks back and forth In the middle of the case. This causes a small gap between the 1st clutch and the nut, which is where the leak in the 2nd clutch circuit appears. A new main-shaft nut should be replaced with every repair, since it has a factory thread locker. The nut can be accessed by removing the side cover, which means the unit does not have to be removed to replace it. The nut, and this is very important, should be torqued to 111 ft. lbs. The Saturn part number for the main-shaft nut is 21001680. Another common no reverse condition is a faulty or defective vehicle speed sensor. The input from the VSS to the PCM should always read less than 5 mph. This allows the PCM to command high line pressure, which in turn will move the servo apply valve (1992-up models only) to an open position, thus opening up the passage to allow oil to the forward/reverse servo piston. If the VSS is defective (thus reading 5 mph or above on your scan tool), the PCM will command low line pressure, thus not feeding oil to the forward/reverse servo piston. In turn, the slider assembly will not move, causing a no reverse condition. Another problem that occurs, especially when the unit has been removed, is an incorrectly adjusted pattern select switch, which we all commonly know as the manual lever positioning switch. If the pattern select switch is not adjusted properly, a no reverse condition, as well as loss of drive and/or erratic or harsh shifting can occur. To adjust the pattern select switch, put the selector in the D4 position. DO NOT start the vehicle. Connect an ohm meter to the switch. Rotate the switch until the ohm meter reads continuity. Once a reading is obtained, tighten the pattern select switch. Once again, the valve body is still the main cause for reverse as well as forward issues with the TAAT. But as you can see, there can be other areas that may also need to be addressed.   I buy the few items In which we carry personally from OEM Representatives and National Factory Wholesalers that I have met through my years as a Dealership owner and my affiliations with NADA and NIDA. These items are for the most part, shelved retail able units. Though it is common industry wide to tear down cores, as a whole, although obviously some of ours are used as well; I have been Blessed with an inside track to the "Cream of the Crop." JUPITER -VS- SONNAX We feel the Sonnax update process is the best Re-manufacturing Process available. Yet the machining expertize and durable hardware is as much a necessity, as it is a great product, which retails near that of new ones. The units in which I have known and have seen to be used with these upgrades, need such craftsmanship to once again be a OEM unit. Very cheap to buy bulk, with extensive labor and product investment. We purchase the opposite end of that spectrum. Then apply the Engineering philosophy we have all stated; "Why don't they fix this at the factory" . Fix the problem where it starts . Our unit is Pressure tested to determine it's worthiness to become a READY TO INSTALL VALVE BODY. If at that point it fails to meet the OEM SPEC Variances, it's tossed. Those that pass are then checked for operation and responsive accuracy, Digitally. Any needed part or tuning is done at that point. We then after a serious reconditioning process, have tech springs inserted replacing the Factory ones. There up-graded composite and heavier tension create a favorably yet marginally snugger, firmer, pressure concerning the Valves. Hence the famous bore ware is severely reduced in a barely used if at all unit.. Then one final QA inspection upon packing. Estimated to add an additional 2-3 yrs. to a TAAT Valve Body. For the Retail cost slightly above used ones, that are offered only "as is". We don't need the effort to build, when we put it in the Buy. We pay more, up-grade for much less, while providing cost effective durable units. We believe our method of up-grade, besides it's success, is the best of all options.
List Price: $350.00
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